Venice Archives - Gray Matters

Venice for the rest of us

When Italians talk about Venice, they roll their eyes upwards wistfully. Then, “Ah. bellissima, ma è molto costosa.” Very beautiful but very expensive.

True, compared to many Italian cities, Venice is expensive. But it does not have to be. The city’s secrets are revealed only on a budget and away from the crowd. You could stay in one of the many opulent hotels along the Grand Canal for $1,000 per night, and eat at famous and pricey restaurants, but you won’t get beneath the surface of this enchanting lagoon.

Nicknamed La Serenissima, the most serene, Venice is often anything but serene near San Marco, one of the city’s six districts, and where you’ll find the Piazza San Marco, the Doge’s Palace, the Basilica, and hordes of oblivious selfie-snapping tourists jammed into tight alleys. Don’t sleep, eat, or shop in San Marco if you value your sanity.

Twenty million tourists visit Venice every year. Go when they don’t. My husband and I went over Thanksgiving five years ago and had the place to ourselves. It was freezing, rainy, and peaceful. In March my daughter and I did not have to wait in line to enter the Basilica. Summers are chaotic. We used to visit the first week in October, over the Chinese National holiday, but I have noticed a dramatic increase in Chinese tourists doing the same thing. Traveling in winter (avoiding Carnevale) is a less expensive and offers a more authentic experience.

Stay near the Campo di San Giacomo dell’Orio, in the Santa Croce district. In the Campo, we enjoy an aperitivo and watch kids play soccer, owners walk their dogs, and neighbors meet. The Coop grocery store on the corner has lengthy checkout lines but anything you’ll need. There’s even a nearby laundromat next to a bar.

Campiello Zen is an ideal B&B for first-time visitors. The owners, Susanna and Andrea, take you under their wing and introduce you to the Venice they love. They give personalized recommendations for under-appreciated sights and local restaurants to try. They’ll make your dinner reservations, show you how to get around, and ensure your first vacation in labyrinthine Venice is memorable. With only three (albeit gorgeous) rooms though, book well in advance.

Ca’ San Giorgio is an excellent B&B in a recently renovated fourteenth-century building that teems with history.An ancient well dominates the courtyard entrance. Stone walls and wood-beamed ceilings complement tasteful furnishings. Here too, the staff can make reservations, offer suggestions, and arrange transportation. Reserve the junior suite with the altana, a Venetian rooftop terrace. You’ll love the views.

We lived like locals at an Airbnb apartment in Venice with a rooftop terrace on our last visit. It was spacious and well-appointed with a full kitchen and a clothes washer. Our host recommended restaurants and had numerous travel guidebooks available. The price was very reasonable and with a kitchen, you can save on food costs.

Before you leave home, buy a Venezia Unica City Pass online. With a Venezia Unica pass, you can create your own savings for vaporetto (waterbus) tickets, museum entrances, airport transfers, and more. Most important—you can skip the lines at museums!

Arriving in Venice by plane is thrilling; get a window seat to see the lagoon from above. To reach Venice from Marco Polo airport, you have a few options. All of them can be arranged in the arrivals hall at ticket counters or by machine.

A bus is the cheapest—but take the ATVO express to Piazzale Roma, it takes about 25 minutes. The ACTV bus #5 makes 17 stops! From Piazzale Roma, you can take a vaporetto anywhere in Venice.

A car taxi can also bring you to Piazzale Roma. It costs about € 40. Venice does not have Uber.

Alilaguna ferries operate four routes from the airport docks to a variety of stops around the city that may be convenient for you. Tickets can be purchased online or at the arrivals hall.

A water taxi is the most expensive but an exhilarating way to arrive. The fresh air is a jet lag antidote and you’ll feel like a rockstar. Expect to pay around € 90. It will not take long to get to your destination! Pay at the counter in the arrivals hall and your sleek boat will be waiting when you get to the docks.

We always eat our first meal at Muro San Stae. A short walk from our B&B, Muro’s delicious pizzas are reasonably priced and gondolieri often lunch here! It is open continuously so we don’t have to rush to get here during lunch hours. Try the dessert wine with cookies to dip. (Read more about dining in Italy here.)

Speaking of wine, order a mezzo litro (half liter) or un litro of the vino della casa. It will taste great and cost less than a bottle. Italians love bottled water but tap water is safe to drink. To save a few euros you could request acqua al rubinetto. Bring an empty water bottle to fill from the many fountains throughout the city.

Our favorite restaurant in Venice is La Bottega Ai Promessi Sposi in Cannaregio. Almost everything in Venice is hidden, but Ai Promessi Sposi is a treasure worth seeking. At dinnertime, look for people standing outside eating meatballs. Make your way through the friendly crowd to the packed bar area. Heavy wood tables, hand-written menus, and bread served in paper bags add to the friendly atmosphere. The staffers are excellent at recommending what to order. Their fish, meat dishes, and pastas are all fantastic. The portions are large so you can share. (Uno per due.) Reservations are essential for dinner. (They don’t have a website. Call +39 041 241 2747)

Just off the Campo di San Giacomo dell’Orio, il Refolo is superbly located along a quiet canal. Open for lunch and dinner, it’s a wonderful place to eat outside and watch real-life Venice unfold. Run by the same family who own the famed (and expensive) Da Fiore, il Refolo’s pizzas are top-notch and affordable. Their penne is consistently the best I’ve had, and their grilled sea bream was perfection. With limited seating indoors, make a reservation. (No website. Call +30 041 524 0016)

If you get tired of seafood, reserve a table at La Bitta, just off the Campo San Barnaba in Dorsoduro. Their meat and seasonal pasta dishes are exceptional. In a small space with low wood-beamed ceilings, paper placemats, and hand-written menus posted on easels, the ambiance is friendly and unpretentious. Our server made excellent recommendations, and they also have a diverse wine selection. Bring cash-they don’t take credit cards. (+39 041 523 0531)

Ristorante Vinaria in San Polo was our lunchtime escape from the teeming masses in San Marco. Along the Riva del Vin, Vinaria has a peaceful courtyard and outdoor tables along the canal. Large windows give it an airy feel. Fresh, high-quality ingredients were artfully prepared. The scallops were a particular treat. Also open for dinner, I think it would make a good “date night” spot.

At least one evening, enjoy cichetti, the Venetian version of tapas. Meatballs, sandwiches, vegetables, crostini, cured meats, fresh seafood and more can all be had for around € 1-4 each starting at around 6 PM at a neighborhood bars and restaurants. Cichetti are usually eaten standing by the bar and accompanied by a glass of inexpensive local wine. Alla Vedova in Cannaregio is our favorite for € 1 meatballs and wine.

Hop on the waterbus to the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and take the elevator to the top of the bell tower. The views are stunning and it’s much less crowded than the Campanile di San Marco.

Rather than contend with congestion on the glass-blowing island of Murano, go to picturesque Burano, which has a rich history of seafaring and lacemaking. Enjoy fresh seafood and my favorite “S” cookies dunked in dessert wine at one of the many local restaurants.

At the I Frari church in Dorsoduro you can see artworks by Titan, Bellini, Canova with hopefully little company. Venice has an ever-changing art scene. Check the Venezia Unica website or ask when you arrive what exhibits are on display.

Ride the vaporetto 1 line down the Grand Canal at sunset. The buildings shimmer, lights reflect in the water, and when it gets dark, you can peek into the palazzi that front the canal.

Go to the Rialto fish market in early morning to see the spectacular array of fresh fish and produce.

If it’s not the Venice Biennale, the large Giardini Pubblici in Castello is a welcome retreat and the largest green space in Venice. Alternatively, the Giardinetti near the Piazzeta San Marco can be blissful in the off-season.

For gorgeous hand-bound journals, stamps, and stationary visit Paolo at il Pavone di Pelosin Paolo in his colorful shop. He’ll show you the back room where he dries his hand-decorated papers, the press on the display table, and how he binds his books. They make unique and beautiful gifts. Campiello dei Meloni in San Polo, 1478.

Pick up the fabulous Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse at Il Pantagruelica where Toni will give you a sample and package it for shipping. He also carries cured meats, notable wines, balsamic vinegars, truffles in season, and other local specialties to take home. His shop is in Dorsoduro near the Campo San Barnaba.

Get out of town and visit the Prosecco wine region! We met Chiara, owner of Prosecco di Marca at the train station in Conegliano, a one-hour ride from Venice. She took us to visit two excellent wineries where we got private tours and tastings, one of which was in an old wine barrel among the vines. Her knowledge and insider access gave us a much better experience than if we’d gone on our own.

The roughly 60,000 residents of Venice are, for the most part, friendly and tourist-tolerant. However, in the seven years I’ve been visiting, visitor misbehavior is rising. Do not throw anything in the canal! Do not feed the pigeons. Don’t get me started on selfie-sticks. (They’re a great way to fall in the canal!) Help people carry baby strollers over bridges. Leave the golf umbrella at home, use a small one. Walk on the right side. Do not picnic on church steps. Use your inside voice.

Bring a good map but definitely get lost wandering the calli (alleys) and sotoportegi (covered passageways). Venice’s delights are discovered on a detour. Don’t try to see everything in one weekend. Travel slower and you’ll travel deeper.

Venice, Florence, Milan, or Rome?

What cities should I visit in Italy?

My snapshots of the big four will help you narrow it down.

Venezia is my favorite “big” city in Italy, but that’s because we usually go in the dead of winter when there are no crowds. Nicknamed La Serenissima, the most serene, no other city compares. It’s so quiet without car noise. Church bells, dogs barking, and the occasional boat motor punctuate the silence.

We don’t do touristy things. We get lost, we watch the garbage guys haul trash to boats, we watch residents dance tango Thursday nights in the campo (square). If your version of Venice happens in the high season or if you are hell-bent on seeing all of the sights in one visit, you’ll have a different experience. Twenty million tourists visit Venice annually. Try to go when they’re not.

Venice has six districts (sestiere). St. Mark’s Basilica, the Bridge of Sighs, the Palazzo Ducale and the Piazza San Marco are all next to each other in San Marco. The farther you are from San Marco, the less tourists you’ll encounter. Only about 60,000 inhabitants still live in Venice but it’s easier to mingle among them and get a local feel if you’re away from the fray. We stay in small B&Bs in a residential neighborhood 20 minutes from the chaos that is Piazza San Marco. One is Campiello Zen, the other, Ca’San Giorgio. (Get the room with the altana rooftop terrace.) I’ve heard people say they don’t like Venice because it’s too busy. Then I ask where they stayed. Invariably, right by the Piazza.

Two must-dos: 1. Have cicchetti (snacks and wine) standing at the counter like the locals. 2. Ride the waterbus down the Grand Canal at night to see the palazzi lighted up.

Read my stories about Venice here.

Firenze (Florence) is my husband Matt’s favorite city. Probably my runner-up. Again, we go in the off-season. We had David to ourselves. We took a food and wine tour with a group called De Gustibus that blew me away. Florence is largely pedestrian-only and peaceful.

Florence is a small city with a lot to offer. Along the Arno River with its Ponte Vecchio, Florence is beautiful and romantic. The food and wines amaze, the architecture inspires, artistic treasures abound, and the leather shopping is superb. Easily reached by train, Florence and the surrounding area make a fantastic vacation.

View of Firenze and the Arno from Piazzale Michelangelo

In Florence, I recommend staying in a B&B near the Piazza della Signoria. Unlike Venice, in Florence, you are better off staying someplace central. Everything in Florence is within walking distance. Stay in the old town zona pedonale where cars are not allowed.

Two must-dos: 1. Get timed museum tickets to the Uffizi Gallery and the Galleria dell’Accademia to avoid lines. 2. Wake up early to catch the sunrise over the Arno River.

Milano is cosmopolitan. I quit counting the Rolls Royces. It is the shopping mecca for people who spend more money than I do and wear clothing I would not be caught dead in. Milan does however, have the Last Supper, and the Duomo. And both merit a stay in Milan. Airfare into Milan is sometimes cheaper. I’m sure there are things for young children to do, but I would not bring kids to Milan.

You don’t have to be Catholic to admire the Duomo, but you do have to see it to grasp its grandeur. Go to the rooftop terrace. The Duomo has a cool app you can access for additional information during your visit.

The Last Supper is faded, yes. Go anyway. You should get goosebumps. You will need timed tickets in advance. If the website does not have any available, call. They speak English and have more availability. Get a guide. They will point out things you would never see otherwise and would not understand if you did.

In Milan, we’ve actually stayed in hotels near the Duomo. It’s a flat, walkable city but you can get around to the other attractions by metro, taxi, and bike rental (if you’re braver than I). I loved the nH Collection Milano President. (Free Prosecco with breakfast!)

Two must-dos: 1. Milan’s bars put on epic Happy Hours. For about 10 Euros you can get a cocktail with a meal-worthy snacks buffet. Go to the Navigli canal area and bar hop with the Milanese. 2. Find the Primo Carnera sculpture on the Duomo rooftop. He was a famous Italian heavyweight boxer immortalized in the coping near the exit stairs.

Roma is amazing. Not in the summer. Not in a Jubilee Year. Go in the dead of winter. You’ll thank me when you see the pictures of the Trevi fountain full of tourists. If you do nothing else, go to the Pantheon. It’s incredible. The Colosseum in winter is spectacular. Rome is a historic city that exudes atmosphere, in the off-season.

If you want to see the Sistine Chapel at the Vatican museum get tickets ahead of time or get a guide. Otherwise you will wait in line for hours. Plan an entire day for the Vatican.

Rome is large but walkable. There is a metro but it serves mainly the suburbs. I strongly recommend staying across the river in Trastevere. Specifically at the Rhea Silvia with reasonably priced, large, lovely rooms; fabulous service and a great location. Breakfast is at a local restaurant around the corner and immerses you into Romanity.

Two must-dos: 1. Take a walk to see the monuments and fountains at night. 2. Buy prosecco from a vending machine on the sidewalk. How cool is that?

More helpful hints on where to go coming soon…

A Photographer Focuses on Venice

Venice was founded by fugitives fleeing barbarians, grew with traders who had a penchant for thievery, and flourished under strong rulers whose independence drove the Pope to excommunicate the entire city. From a fledgling temporary community of wooden huts in the Fifth Century AD to an opulent trading center that once ruled the seas, Venice’s unique history gives it an incredible presence almost mythical in nature. It defies rational explanation. You can almost feel the curiosity that is inherent to this city of Carnevale masks and labyrinthine alleys. History seeps from the porous cracks in the foundations of old buildings that perch precariously along the Grand Canal.

Planning for my trip I was skeptical that Venice could live up to her reputation. Too many tourists, too busy, too loud, too expensive, too smelly, too much weird food, I worried. As an artist I followed Venice’s siren song as many have before. I was not shipwrecked upon arrival but I was wrecked. My worries, as most are, were unwarranted. The gorgeous photo opportunities I wanted were in abundance. The tourists are plentiful but easy to evade. The only smells I encountered were delicious fresh foods, pastries, and coffee. The prices were lower than I anticipated. The still of the silence with no vehicles was a welcome respite and upon leaving the lagoon, vehicular traffic was jarring. Only the weather was just okay.

Venice receives 20 million tourists annually. Many of them leave in the evening with departing cruise ships, but it felt as if they were all at St. Mark’s square the afternoon we arrived. I’ve never found a sea of heads in a throng very photogenic. We did not see the inside of St. Mark’s basilica and the sarcophagus holding his stolen body. We did nothing on my list of tourist sites to visit. Having lost our appetite for traditional traveling we succumbed to the sheer delight of discovering the hidden Venice that lies beneath the surface. Winding our way back to the serenity of the Santa Croce neighborhood where we were staying, beautiful pictures presented themselves in rapid succession.

Before dawn the next morning, thinking we would have the Piazza San Marco to ourselves, we hurriedly walked the meandering path to the Piazza to create “the” iconic sunrise picture. Imagine my dismay upon finding street sweepers cleaning up garbage, hundreds of tourists already there, several other photographers with the same idea, and many intrepid runners braving the cold to prepare for the upcoming Venice marathon. It was still dark. Rather than attempt St. Marks, I jockeyed to position my tripod to shoot the gondolas nearby, quite ready to duel if another photographer wanted to encroach on my territory. Snapping the shutter, my initial disappointment turned to fear that I would leave Venice with no good pictures. Most of my photography reconnaissance was for naught. I learned as I went and hopefully you can benefit from my experience.

Venice is an excellent city for photographers. The locals are accustomed to camera-toting tourists and are used to being in pictures. The residents are particularly accommodating if you walk over to the side of the street to take pictures rather than stopping abruptly and causing a pedestrian pileup. Everyone we encountered in Venice was gracious and friendly. Watching the children play and listening to the dogs bark in the local campo provides photo opportunities most tourists miss and also gives a flavor of the community. At only two square miles in size, it is easy to walk or take the waterbus and navigate away from the busier areas. The influence of art is also appreciated by locals and visitors alike. Venice has more artistic masterpieces per square mile than any other city in the world and is still home to many talented working artisans. The creative energy is palpable and inspiring.

The narrowness of the canals and the intensity of the light can make for tricky pictures. It is also common to find one side of the canal brightly lit while the other is dark. Getting the proper exposure can be a challenge when the light is so varied. Setting everything to manual, I took meter readings from the areas in the scene I wanted the focus on. I also bracketed many shots. We added more time to get anywhere because I was constantly taking pictures, and they took a while to take. I used a polarizer often and packed a neutral density filter but did not use it. For developing, I used Photoshop to tone down highlights in the sky and to bring out details in the shadows. Always ready for the moment, I wore my camera all day thanks to my Black Rapid strap. If you see a scene you like, take it immediately because it can be hard to find your way back later. Have patience when composing images. Wait for people to leave your scene, or for better lighting conditions. Above all else, comfortable walking shoes are a must as the waterbus, while lovely, can be slow.

Do not anticipate getting an excellent picture of the Bridge of Sighs, the Rialto Bridge, or other famous sites. There are many people with the same idea, and the Bridge of Sighs is currently under renovation and covered with advertisements to pay for it. The Rialto had areas covered in scaffolding. Graffiti was not something I expected to encounter everywhere, even churches, but it is rampant. St. Marks was strewn with garbage at the end of the day even though eating there is forbidden. Beautiful sculptures and buildings are affixed with utilitarian spikes to discourage the infamous pigeons. Buy a postcard of the famous sites and focus your photographic efforts on something you find uniquely beautiful. There will be many, I promise.

For terrific photographic opportunities, better meals, and local ambience, wander the back alleys of the neighborhoods. Venice is extremely safe and treasures wait to be found. A great view of Venice can be seen from across the Canal from the campanile at San Giorgio Maggiore rather than wait in line for the one at San Marco. The outlying islands are a quiet antidote to the bustle of Venice. Burano especially is a photographer’s delight, and the boat ride there is included with your waterbus multi-day pass. The fishermen on this island painted their houses in bright colors to see them from sea and the tradition continues to this day. The ubiquitous hanging laundry adds to the atmosphere.

The sunset light was stellar and as a benefit of being there four days we were able to determine excellent locations to experience it. The fading sun’s rays illuminate the buildings and the Grand Canal like a Boroque light show and the scenes are achingly beautiful. Near the train station the views over the canal from the Ponte dei Scalzi were among the best at twilight. The way the wide Canal wends, good sunset vistas are plentiful along the Grand Canal. The smaller side canals are darker so head towards the Grand Canal at sundown.

Riding the waterbus down the Grand Canal it’s easy to marvel while viewing the marble palazzi built atop ancient wooden pylons that Venice had humble origins in a malarial swamp. Vestiges of the trading and shipping empire Venice once was are still evident. The proud Lion, St. Mark’s sign and the symbol of the city fly proudly on the Venetian flag flown everywhere. The booty brought back from Venetian raids overseas is still on display. Ever-changing reflections in the many canals subtly remind you that Venice’s very existence is inextricably linked to water. Carnevale costumes evoke the ribald past enjoyed by people from many cultures. Byzantine influences abound that speak to the long-held tolerance that attracted peace and trade from all corners. With a zoom lens it is possible to capture some of the breathtaking beauty found here. But a camera can’t see the unique spirit of this singular city. It must be felt.