Travel Advice Archives - Gray Matters

Venice for the rest of us

When Italians talk about Venice, they roll their eyes upwards wistfully. Then, “Ah. bellissima, ma è molto costosa.” Very beautiful but very expensive.

True, compared to many Italian cities, Venice is expensive. But it does not have to be. The city’s secrets are revealed only on a budget and away from the crowd. You could stay in one of the many opulent hotels along the Grand Canal for $1,000 per night, and eat at famous and pricey restaurants, but you won’t get beneath the surface of this enchanting lagoon.

Nicknamed La Serenissima, the most serene, Venice is often anything but serene near San Marco, one of the city’s six districts, and where you’ll find the Piazza San Marco, the Doge’s Palace, the Basilica, and hordes of oblivious selfie-snapping tourists jammed into tight alleys. Don’t sleep, eat, or shop in San Marco if you value your sanity.

Twenty million tourists visit Venice every year. Go when they don’t. My husband and I went over Thanksgiving five years ago and had the place to ourselves. It was freezing, rainy, and peaceful. In March my daughter and I did not have to wait in line to enter the Basilica. Summers are chaotic. We used to visit the first week in October, over the Chinese National holiday, but I have noticed a dramatic increase in Chinese tourists doing the same thing. Traveling in winter (avoiding Carnevale) is a less expensive and offers a more authentic experience.

Stay near the Campo di San Giacomo dell’Orio, in the Santa Croce district. In the Campo, we enjoy an aperitivo and watch kids play soccer, owners walk their dogs, and neighbors meet. The Coop grocery store on the corner has lengthy checkout lines but anything you’ll need. There’s even a nearby laundromat next to a bar.

Campiello Zen is an ideal B&B for first-time visitors. The owners, Susanna and Andrea, take you under their wing and introduce you to the Venice they love. They give personalized recommendations for under-appreciated sights and local restaurants to try. They’ll make your dinner reservations, show you how to get around, and ensure your first vacation in labyrinthine Venice is memorable. With only three (albeit gorgeous) rooms though, book well in advance.

Ca’ San Giorgio is an excellent B&B in a recently renovated fourteenth-century building that teems with history.An ancient well dominates the courtyard entrance. Stone walls and wood-beamed ceilings complement tasteful furnishings. Here too, the staff can make reservations, offer suggestions, and arrange transportation. Reserve the junior suite with the altana, a Venetian rooftop terrace. You’ll love the views.

We lived like locals at an Airbnb apartment in Venice with a rooftop terrace on our last visit. It was spacious and well-appointed with a full kitchen and a clothes washer. Our host recommended restaurants and had numerous travel guidebooks available. The price was very reasonable and with a kitchen, you can save on food costs.

Before you leave home, buy a Venezia Unica City Pass online. With a Venezia Unica pass, you can create your own savings for vaporetto (waterbus) tickets, museum entrances, airport transfers, and more. Most important—you can skip the lines at museums!

Arriving in Venice by plane is thrilling; get a window seat to see the lagoon from above. To reach Venice from Marco Polo airport, you have a few options. All of them can be arranged in the arrivals hall at ticket counters or by machine.

A bus is the cheapest—but take the ATVO express to Piazzale Roma, it takes about 25 minutes. The ACTV bus #5 makes 17 stops! From Piazzale Roma, you can take a vaporetto anywhere in Venice.

A car taxi can also bring you to Piazzale Roma. It costs about € 40. Venice does not have Uber.

Alilaguna ferries operate four routes from the airport docks to a variety of stops around the city that may be convenient for you. Tickets can be purchased online or at the arrivals hall.

A water taxi is the most expensive but an exhilarating way to arrive. The fresh air is a jet lag antidote and you’ll feel like a rockstar. Expect to pay around € 90. It will not take long to get to your destination! Pay at the counter in the arrivals hall and your sleek boat will be waiting when you get to the docks.

We always eat our first meal at Muro San Stae. A short walk from our B&B, Muro’s delicious pizzas are reasonably priced and gondolieri often lunch here! It is open continuously so we don’t have to rush to get here during lunch hours. Try the dessert wine with cookies to dip. (Read more about dining in Italy here.)

Speaking of wine, order a mezzo litro (half liter) or un litro of the vino della casa. It will taste great and cost less than a bottle. Italians love bottled water but tap water is safe to drink. To save a few euros you could request acqua al rubinetto. Bring an empty water bottle to fill from the many fountains throughout the city.

Our favorite restaurant in Venice is La Bottega Ai Promessi Sposi in Cannaregio. Almost everything in Venice is hidden, but Ai Promessi Sposi is a treasure worth seeking. At dinnertime, look for people standing outside eating meatballs. Make your way through the friendly crowd to the packed bar area. Heavy wood tables, hand-written menus, and bread served in paper bags add to the friendly atmosphere. The staffers are excellent at recommending what to order. Their fish, meat dishes, and pastas are all fantastic. The portions are large so you can share. (Uno per due.) Reservations are essential for dinner. (They don’t have a website. Call +39 041 241 2747)

Just off the Campo di San Giacomo dell’Orio, il Refolo is superbly located along a quiet canal. Open for lunch and dinner, it’s a wonderful place to eat outside and watch real-life Venice unfold. Run by the same family who own the famed (and expensive) Da Fiore, il Refolo’s pizzas are top-notch and affordable. Their penne is consistently the best I’ve had, and their grilled sea bream was perfection. With limited seating indoors, make a reservation. (No website. Call +30 041 524 0016)

If you get tired of seafood, reserve a table at La Bitta, just off the Campo San Barnaba in Dorsoduro. Their meat and seasonal pasta dishes are exceptional. In a small space with low wood-beamed ceilings, paper placemats, and hand-written menus posted on easels, the ambiance is friendly and unpretentious. Our server made excellent recommendations, and they also have a diverse wine selection. Bring cash-they don’t take credit cards. (+39 041 523 0531)

Ristorante Vinaria in San Polo was our lunchtime escape from the teeming masses in San Marco. Along the Riva del Vin, Vinaria has a peaceful courtyard and outdoor tables along the canal. Large windows give it an airy feel. Fresh, high-quality ingredients were artfully prepared. The scallops were a particular treat. Also open for dinner, I think it would make a good “date night” spot.

At least one evening, enjoy cichetti, the Venetian version of tapas. Meatballs, sandwiches, vegetables, crostini, cured meats, fresh seafood and more can all be had for around € 1-4 each starting at around 6 PM at a neighborhood bars and restaurants. Cichetti are usually eaten standing by the bar and accompanied by a glass of inexpensive local wine. Alla Vedova in Cannaregio is our favorite for € 1 meatballs and wine.

Hop on the waterbus to the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and take the elevator to the top of the bell tower. The views are stunning and it’s much less crowded than the Campanile di San Marco.

Rather than contend with congestion on the glass-blowing island of Murano, go to picturesque Burano, which has a rich history of seafaring and lacemaking. Enjoy fresh seafood and my favorite “S” cookies dunked in dessert wine at one of the many local restaurants.

At the I Frari church in Dorsoduro you can see artworks by Titan, Bellini, Canova with hopefully little company. Venice has an ever-changing art scene. Check the Venezia Unica website or ask when you arrive what exhibits are on display.

Ride the vaporetto 1 line down the Grand Canal at sunset. The buildings shimmer, lights reflect in the water, and when it gets dark, you can peek into the palazzi that front the canal.

Go to the Rialto fish market in early morning to see the spectacular array of fresh fish and produce.

If it’s not the Venice Biennale, the large Giardini Pubblici in Castello is a welcome retreat and the largest green space in Venice. Alternatively, the Giardinetti near the Piazzeta San Marco can be blissful in the off-season.

For gorgeous hand-bound journals, stamps, and stationary visit Paolo at il Pavone di Pelosin Paolo in his colorful shop. He’ll show you the back room where he dries his hand-decorated papers, the press on the display table, and how he binds his books. They make unique and beautiful gifts. Campiello dei Meloni in San Polo, 1478.

Pick up the fabulous Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse at Il Pantagruelica where Toni will give you a sample and package it for shipping. He also carries cured meats, notable wines, balsamic vinegars, truffles in season, and other local specialties to take home. His shop is in Dorsoduro near the Campo San Barnaba.

Get out of town and visit the Prosecco wine region! We met Chiara, owner of Prosecco di Marca at the train station in Conegliano, a one-hour ride from Venice. She took us to visit two excellent wineries where we got private tours and tastings, one of which was in an old wine barrel among the vines. Her knowledge and insider access gave us a much better experience than if we’d gone on our own.

The roughly 60,000 residents of Venice are, for the most part, friendly and tourist-tolerant. However, in the seven years I’ve been visiting, visitor misbehavior is rising. Do not throw anything in the canal! Do not feed the pigeons. Don’t get me started on selfie-sticks. (They’re a great way to fall in the canal!) Help people carry baby strollers over bridges. Leave the golf umbrella at home, use a small one. Walk on the right side. Do not picnic on church steps. Use your inside voice.

Bring a good map but definitely get lost wandering the calli (alleys) and sotoportegi (covered passageways). Venice’s delights are discovered on a detour. Don’t try to see everything in one weekend. Travel slower and you’ll travel deeper.

Where to Find Idyllic Italy Without Tourists

If you drive two hours northwest from Rome you’ll find rolling hills striped with grapevines, delicious local cuisine, medieval hilltop towns, Renaissance art, and no tourists in the off-season. You’re not in Tuscany, but it’s southern neighbor, Umbria, Italy’s green heart.

Landlocked in the center of Italy, Umbria is a region of scattered jewels rather than one giant gemstone. The region’s capital, Perugia, has a rich artistic and cultural heritage. Assisi is the burial place of St. Francis and a pilgrimage town. In March, my husband Matt and I went to the countryside near Montefalco to relax, drink wine, cook Umbrian food, and make chocolate.

Travelers, especially Americans, overlook this idyllic Italy. Indeed, after the 2016 earthquakes that struck Amatrice (a two-hour drive from Montefalco) and Norcia (a one-hour drive), even Italian tourists avoided the area. Almost all of Italy is a seismic risk at some level. Before leaving, we registered with the State Department’s Smart Traveler Enrollment Program, just in case.

We rented a house for a week at Casale Satriano in the vineyards of the Antonelli San Marco winery. Views of grapevines, olive groves, and rolling hills greeted us at every turn. Distant hilltop towns defined by their towers surrounded us. Only birdsong and the occasional tractor broke the silence. A resident cat adopted us and brushed up against my leg each evening when the sun cast a golden glow over the valley at sunset.

Montefalco was an easy five-minute drive. We parked outside the city walls and walked up to the charming piazza fronted by restaurants and shops that offered olive oil and wine tastings. At Oro Rosso, we shared a local lasagna to start followed by turkey for Matt, and pigeon with guinea fowl for me, all homemade, all fresh local ingredients. The wine, of course, was excellent, and all were reasonably priced.

Corks threaded on strings hung from the doorway to La Scimmia, the local bar a quarter-mile walk up from our apartment. Wine for sale lined one wall, snacks on another. One gentleman sliced cheese and meat for sandwiches and made coffees. He insisted on sampling us a tasty cheese platter to try with our espressos. The wine by the glass was excellent and I thought I mistranslated the price we paid for it all. No, it really was that inexpensive.

Antonelli San Marco, Cucina in Cantina, Montefalco, Umbria

Australian Wendy Aulsebrook runs Antonelli San Marco’s Cucina in Cantina program. We met Wendy and her associate Leonella our first evening, having reserved a wine dinner. Luckily we were the only guests this time of year. Over salumi made from the winery’s free-range pigs, then homemade farro pasta from local organic wheat, Wendy recommended restaurants and wine bars in neighboring villages to try.

Once nearly extinct, winemakers in Montefalco revived the indigenous Sagrantino grape in the 1970s. By 1992, Sagrantino di Montefalco wine had acquired the highest government quality ranking of DOCG. The dark, full-bodied red is made with 100% Sagrantino grapes and ages well. Area producers also make white wines from the local grapes Grechetto and Trebbiano Spoletino, and blend Sagrantino with Sangiovese to make Montefalco Rosso.

The next day we lunched at Wendy-recommended Osteria Antiche Sere in Bevagna, a beautiful medieval riverside town. After a walk through Bevagna, we drove to Spello, an ancient walled village with views over the plain. We ended up at Drinking Wine, a wine bar Wendy liked. In the middle of the day, off-season, we had it to ourselves.

L’Alchimista in Montefalco became our favorite restaurant. Too cold to eat dinner on the piazza, we ate indoors, which quickly packed with locals. Not only were we the only Americans, we were the only tourists. Fresh butter and wild sage ravioli was our highlight, although Matt loved his hand-chopped hamburger. We returned for lunch and ordered the ravioli again, it was that good.

We were given a souvenir apron with our cooking class and I use it often. It has long ties that Wendy taught us to cinch in the front to tuck a towel into so you can always dry your hands. We learned how to make an onion frittata, (without burning the onions) and fresh pasta. Rosemary focaccia’s dents are from pressing it out with fingertips. The best roasted chicken I’ve had, zucchini sauce for the pasta, red wine cookies, panna cotta, and potatoes with vegetables rounded out our meal. Paired with fantastic Antonelli wines, of course!

In Spoleto, an ancient hill town known for its Romanesque architecture and arts festival, we encountered tourists for the first time. Spoleto is a larger city with historic sights galore. We were on a mission to find a scolapasta, a pasta colander basket Wendy and Leonella had used. We trudged up steep narrow lanes amid dozens of small souvenir shops, none of which had a scolapasta. We found one instead in a tiny store outside Montefalco’s city walls.

We received another apron at the chocolate-making class we took at the Perugina factory’s Chocolate School near Perugia. For three hours we made chocolate truffles and bars (and a huge mess) at our stations in the kitchen. The chef spoke Italian but we understood enough to leave with 36 truffles each and two kilos of chocolate bars. Afterwards, we toured the factory and stocked up on my favorite Baci chocolate kisses at their shop.

The Paolo Bea family has roots in Montefalco that date back to the 1500s. Today, under Giampiero Bea’s direction, they make highly-esteemed natural wines “by observing and listening to nature.” They use only indigenous yeasts; they don’t use any chemicals or additives, and don’t accelerate the winemaking process. Their respect for nature extends to the cantina— Giampiero designed their beautiful new winery to let air circulate through the building. As a small producer reliant on the weather, their production is limited—each bottle is numbered. But their wines are worth seeking out, much like Umbria.

The app you Need for International Travel

If you are a US citizen who travels internationally you need the Mobile Passport app.

When I recently returned from Rome to JFK the immigration and customs lines were long, even for US citizens. I have Global Entry and used it. But the Mobile Passport line was shorter for immigration and just a few minutes longer for customs clearance than Global Entry. And the Mobile Passport app is FREE. You can use the Mobile Passport App to return to almost every major US airport and Port Everglades Seaport.

Here’s how it works:

Before your trip, download the Mobile Passport App here. It’s available at the Apple App Store and Google Play.

Once installed, scan your passport, verify your information, and take a selfie.

Enjoy your trip!

On your return flight, connect to wifi or cellular to answer the customs questions. (No more blue forms!)

Within seconds you will get a barcode on your phone that you can use within four hours to bypass immigration and customs lines.

Look for the Mobile Passport logo to know where to go, or ask the person yelling instructions, as it’s not always clear.

You’ll use it once for immigration and once for customs.

Buon viaggio!

What you Need to Know to Wine and Dine through Italy

There is no such thing as “Italian Food.”

My husband Matt and I learned this on our first trip when we asked a concierge at our hotel to recommend a good restaurant.

“What kind of food?” She asked. “Italian,” I replied. She shook her head a little as if to clear out the cobwebs. “Do you want Northern Italian, Southern Italian, seafood, something local?” She continued, giving us a brief dissertation on the various types of cuisines throughout Italy. We wanted local, of course, which is what you will want too. She suggested a local restaurant, Vinando, and made reservations for us. It became a favorite we return to.

Italy’s twenty distinct regions all have unique culinary traditions. “Prodotti tipici” literally means typical products and refers to regional specialties. You’ll see it on menus and signs at the market. The pesto pasta you loved on the northwest coast in Liguria won’t be the same if you could even find it in Venice. For a more immersive experience, eat and drink local. The food will be delicious and you’ll also taste regional heritage.

I’ve never had a bad meal in Italy but I’m sure it’s possible. If a restaurant posts a menu turistico find one that does not. NEVER EVER ORDER FROM THE MENU TURISTICO.

Ask your B&B owner or hotel staff for recommendations but specify you seek local, authentic cuisine. If you’re headed to Milan, Venice, Rome, Florence, Alba, or Elba, send me an email and I will give you my picks. I avoid using Tripadvisor to find restaurants in Italy but I got lucky once using Google maps. Before leaving your B&B for the day, ask for lunch spot recommendations near where you’ll be.

To find a great place to eat, follow your nose. Peek at what others are eating if possible. Consider real estate. A view of a piazza is nice but sometimes the restaurants flanking them are touristy and overpriced for what you get. You may do better by walking down a side street. Almost every restaurant displays their menu outside.

Be advised, if you’re looking for pizza it can be difficult to find at lunch. Do not expect every restaurant or pizzeria to have their ovens hot and ready at lunch time.

For dinners, especially on the weekend, you may need to reserve. If your Italian is not strong, have your hotel do it for you. Some restaurants are online and I’ve reserved by email on occasion, but telephone or in person is best. To ask for a reservation say: “Vorrei fare una prenotazione per favore.” Which sounds like “Vō-ray-far-eh-oona-pray-no-tots-ee-ō-nay-pear-fuh-vore-ay”. If you have your heart set on a famous fancy restaurant, reserve well in advance. In larger cities, many servers speak English and have English menus. In smaller towns, usually there is someone who can help. It’s definitely worth seeking out smaller-family-run restaurants.

You don’t need to speak Italian to eat in neighborhood places, but you’ll want a translation app—or even better, this Italian Food Decoder App.

Italians are not big on breakfasts. Local bars (which serve coffee, and usually food, in addition to drinks) will have pastries and coffee for breakfast. If eggs and bacon are important to you, ask your B&B about nearby breakfast offerings if they’re not providing it. I did have great eggs and bacon at a restaurant in Rome, but it surprised me.

If you order a caffè you will get an espresso. If you want American coffee, order a Caffè Americano. After lunch, do not order a cappuccino, get espresso. It’s almost decreed that Italians don’t drink cappuccino after breakfast. You already look like a tourist, don’t make it worse.

Italy has 608 brands of bottled water and you will be asked if you want acqua gassata (fizzy mineral) or acqua naturale (non-bubbly regular). Tap water, acqua al rubinetto, is safe to drink. Italy has water fountains everywhere. Consider bringing a bottle to refill and reduce waste.

Drink the house wine. It will be good and a great price. Half-bottles and bottles are also available—ask your server for a recommendation. “Che cosa mi consiglia?” Is how you ask what they recommend. It sounds like “Kay-coza-me-cone-seal-ya”.

Regardless of the menu, and not all restaurants have a printed one, ask your server what they suggest you order for your meal. (See above.) They’ll know what is freshest and if there are any specials. When I started trusting Italian servers, Italy rewarded me with deeper dining experiences.

Understanding the menu: Antipasto is a hot or cold appetizer. If you want to try an assortment, order the antipasto misto. Primo is the first course, generally a huge serving of amazing pasta, risotto, or soup. Secondo is typically meat (carne) or fish (pesche). Contorni are vegetables served on the side. To save room for dolce, it’s perfectly acceptable to share a dish (uno per due). Don’t feel like you have to eat one of everything.

If you are in a city, especially Milan or Rome, look for bars with Happy Hour Aperitivo. For the price of one drink, usually around 10-15€, you can eat from a buffet, in most cases, large enough to make a meal out of.

You’ll have to ask for the bill, il conto. It may have a coperto of 2-3€ per person. This is a cover charge, and is pretty standard in Italy. If you see a restaurant sign advertising no coperto, they’re getting you another way. Service is typically included in the bill, but if the service was exceptional, leave a little extra, it’s always appreciated.

Don’t order yellow banana or green pistachio gelato. It means they added artificial color and probably flavor. Those flavors should look gray. Definitely try Gelato! It’s got half the fat as ice cream and twice the flavor! 🙂

Vegetarians are well accommodated throughout Italy. If you have a gluten intolerance, you’ll be happy to know gluten-free pasta is readily available. Ask for “senza glutine.” Food allergies (allergico) are respected.

Children are welcome in every restaurant I’ve been to in Italy. If the restaurant does not have a menu per bambini, the server will suggest something.

Buy prosecco from a street-side vending machine. Because how cool is that?

If I’ve forgotten any tips or if you have any questions please let me know!

Buon Appetito!

My Best Italy Travel Tips

I’m often asked for advice for traveling to Italy. Where should I go? What should I do? What is it like? The short answer is that it depends on what kind of vacation you’re looking for. Shopping, Opera, Art, Culture, Architecture, Food, Wine, City, Countryside, Lakes, Vineyards? You can have it all in Italy. Just probably not on one trip. (Unless you’re retired, or have more vacation time than most Americans.)

I cannot think of a country more diverse than Italy. Bisected top to bottom by the Apennine Mountains and surrounded by water, Italy’s gorgeous landscapes give you everything—beaches, hills, volcanoes, lakes, rivers, valleys, rocks, and trees.

A history of invaders from almost everywhere has left its mark in Italy, unified as a country only in 1871. Italy’s twenty administrative regions are unique. The artistic, historic, and cultural meccas of Rome, Florence, Milan, Naples, and Venice beckon. The peace and beauty of small villages among vineyard countrysides invites. Everywhere I’ve gone in Italy has captivated me in some way.

In the next few blogs I’ll give you my best advice for traveling to my favorite country. I travel differently. If your focus is shopping designer brands, quit reading now. Whether I travel with my husband or solo, I’m after experiences, not sight-seeing. If you crave experiential, immersive, and unforgettable travel to Italy, read on…

Where to go:

Travel deep, not wide. Do not try to see it all. You will fall under Italy’s spell and return anyway. Drop the idea of going to Venice, Rome, and Florence in one week. Pick one city, stay for a while, then get away from it. Spend time in Rome, then head to the hills of Grottaferrata. By all means stay in Venice, then visit the Valpolicella wine region. Enjoy Milan, then see the Lakes or spend time among the Langhe vineyards.

If you must stick to cities, pick two reachable by fast train (Frecciarossa on Trenitalia) and fly home from the second one. Italy’s charms are revealed in layers. The more time you spend in one place, the more the country opens up to you. Trust me.

Or avoid big cities altogether. Visit smaller ones such as those found in Emilia-Romagna’s gastronomic powerhouse region. Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and Bologna are in a line along the autostrada or train. You could easily stay in one town and day trip to the rest. I know, you’re thinking but I want to see the Colosseum. It’s not going anywhere.

I’ll cover Venice, Rome, Milan, and Florence in depth in a future post. I’ll also give ideas if you’ve already been to the cities and want to experience new places.

Where to Stay:

Italy is NOT the place to sleep in a Marriott. Stay in a B&B or a farm stay called agriturismo for much more authenticity and much less expense. Overall, Italians are very welcoming and friendly. The proprietors will direct you far better than Tripadvisor on where to eat, what to do, and where to shop. I’ve lucked out finding B&Bs on Tripadvisor.com and Booking.com

To find an agriturismo, try Agriturismi.it, Agriturismo.com or Agriturismo.net

When to go:

If you listen to nothing else, please travel in the off-season. Especially for larger cities. Seriously. The weather might be sketchy but avoiding the crowds and getting David all to yourself is worth a little rain or cold. Plus airfares are cheaper. We go often over Thanksgiving. February is a great time to have Venice to yourself (except during Carnevale)! March is not bad either.

Before you go:

Learn some Italian! It will go a LONG way, I promise. The Italians are typically thrilled that you make an effort.

Buon giorno is a “good day” greeting used country wide until the afternoon. (Boo-on jorno)
Buona sera is used in the afternoon and evening. (Boo-ona seh-ra
Sì is yes, no is no. That’s easy.
Grazie mille is a common way to say thank you. (Gratzee-eh meelay)
Per favore is please. (Pair fav-oreh)
Prego means you’re welcome. It also means, go ahead, come in, take a seat. (Preg-o)
Va bene means that’s good, I like it. (Va ben-eh)
Vorrei means I would like. (Vorray)
Vorrei un bicchiere di vino = (Vorray oon bee-kee-aireh dee vino)
Il conto is the bill, which you have to ask for at restaurants. (Il kon-toe)

The best offline translation app with pronunciation is Collins Italian-English. I’ve heard rumors that Google Translate works off-line, but I have not tried.

Next time, I’ll cover what to know, and what to do when you’re in Bella Italia!
Buon viaggio!