Venice, Florence, Milan, or Rome?

What cities should I visit in Italy?

My snapshots of the big four will help you narrow it down.

Venezia is my favorite “big” city in Italy, but that’s because we usually go in the dead of winter when there are no crowds. Nicknamed La Serenissima, the most serene, no other city compares. It’s so quiet without car noise. Church bells, dogs barking, and the occasional boat motor punctuate the silence.

We don’t do touristy things. We get lost, we watch the garbage guys haul trash to boats, we watch residents dance tango Thursday nights in the campo (square). If your version of Venice happens in the high season or if you are hell-bent on seeing all of the sights in one visit, you’ll have a different experience. Twenty million tourists visit Venice annually. Try to go when they’re not.

Venice has six districts (sestiere). St. Mark’s Basilica, the Bridge of Sighs, the Palazzo Ducale and the Piazza San Marco are all next to each other in San Marco. The farther you are from San Marco, the less tourists you’ll encounter. Only about 60,000 inhabitants still live in Venice but it’s easier to mingle among them and get a local feel if you’re away from the fray. We stay in small B&Bs in a residential neighborhood 20 minutes from the chaos that is Piazza San Marco. One is Campiello Zen, the other, Ca’San Giorgio. (Get the room with the altana rooftop terrace.) I’ve heard people say they don’t like Venice because it’s too busy. Then I ask where they stayed. Invariably, right by the Piazza.

Two must-dos: 1. Have cicchetti (snacks and wine) standing at the counter like the locals. 2. Ride the waterbus down the Grand Canal at night to see the palazzi lighted up.

Read my stories about Venice here.

Firenze (Florence) is my husband Matt’s favorite city. Probably my runner-up. Again, we go in the off-season. We had David to ourselves. We took a food and wine tour with a group called De Gustibus that blew me away. Florence is largely pedestrian-only and peaceful.

Florence is a small city with a lot to offer. Along the Arno River with its Ponte Vecchio, Florence is beautiful and romantic. The food and wines amaze, the architecture inspires, artistic treasures abound, and the leather shopping is superb. Easily reached by train, Florence and the surrounding area make a fantastic vacation.

In Florence, I recommend staying in a B&B near the Piazza della Signoria. Unlike Venice, in Florence, you are better off staying someplace central. Everything in Florence is within walking distance. Stay in the old town zona pedonale where cars are not allowed.

Two must-dos: 1. Get timed museum tickets to the Uffizi Gallery and the Galleria dell’Accademia to avoid lines. 2. Wake up early to catch the sunrise over the Arno River.

Milano is cosmopolitan. I quit counting the Rolls Royces. It is the shopping mecca for people who spend more money than I do and wear clothing I would not be caught dead in. Milan does however, have the Last Supper, and the Duomo. And both merit a stay in Milan. Airfare into Milan is sometimes cheaper. I’m sure there are things for young children to do, but I would not bring kids to Milan.

You don’t have to be Catholic to admire the Duomo, but you do have to see it to grasp its grandeur. Go to the rooftop terrace. The Duomo has a cool app you can access for additional information during your visit.

The Last Supper is faded, yes. Go anyway. You should get goosebumps. You will need timed tickets in advance. If the website does not have any available, call. They speak English and have more availability. Get a guide. They will point out things you would never see otherwise and would not understand if you did.

In Milan, we’ve actually stayed in hotels near the Duomo. It’s a flat, walkable city but you can get around to the other attractions by metro, taxi, and bike rental (if you’re braver than I). I loved the nH Collection Milano President. (Free Prosecco with breakfast!)

Two must-dos: 1. Milan’s bars put on epic Happy Hours. For about 10 Euros you can get a cocktail with a meal-worthy snacks buffet. Go to the Navigli canal area and bar hop with the Milanese. 2. Find the Primo Carnera sculpture on the Duomo rooftop. He was a famous Italian heavyweight boxer immortalized in the coping near the exit stairs.

Roma is amazing. Not in the summer. Not in a Jubilee Year. Go in the dead of winter. You’ll thank me when you see the pictures of the Trevi fountain full of tourists. If you do nothing else, go to the Pantheon. It’s incredible. The Colosseum in winter is spectacular. Rome is a historic city that exudes atmosphere, in the off-season.

If you want to see the Sistine Chapel at the Vatican museum get tickets ahead of time or get a guide. Otherwise you will wait in line for hours. Plan an entire day for the Vatican.

Rome is large but walkable. There is a metro but it serves mainly the suburbs. I strongly recommend staying across the river in Trastevere. Specifically at the Rhea Silvia with reasonably priced, large, lovely rooms; fabulous service and a great location. Breakfast is at a local restaurant around the corner and immerses you into Romanity.

Two must-dos: 1. Take a walk to see the monuments and fountains at night. 2. Buy prosecco from a vending machine on the sidewalk. How cool is that?

More helpful hints on where to go coming soon…