Category: How to Wine and Dine in Italy

There is no such thing as “Italian Food.”

My husband Matt and I learned this on our first trip when we asked a concierge at our hotel to recommend a good restaurant.

“What kind of food?” She asked. “Italian,” I replied. She shook her head a little as if to clear out the cobwebs. “Do you want Northern Italian, Southern Italian, seafood, something local?” She continued, giving us a brief dissertation on the various types of cuisines throughout Italy. We wanted local, of course, which is what you will want too. She suggested a local restaurant, Vinando, and made reservations for us. It became a favorite we return to.

Italy’s twenty distinct regions all have unique culinary traditions. “Prodotti tipici” literally means typical products and refers to regional specialties. You’ll see it on menus and signs at the market. The pesto pasta you loved on the northwest coast in Liguria won’t be the same if you could even find it in Venice. For a more immersive experience, eat and drink local. The food will be delicious and you’ll also taste regional heritage.

I’ve never had a bad meal in Italy but I’m sure it’s possible. If a restaurant posts a menu turistico find one that does not. NEVER EVER ORDER FROM THE MENU TURISTICO.

Ask your B&B owner or hotel staff for recommendations but specify you seek local, authentic cuisine. If you’re headed to Milan, Venice, Rome, Florence, Alba, or Elba, send me an email and I will give you my picks. I avoid using Tripadvisor to find restaurants in Italy but I got lucky once using Google maps. Before leaving your B&B for the day, ask for lunch spot recommendations near where you’ll be.

To find a great place to eat, follow your nose. Peek at what others are eating if possible. Consider real estate. A view of a piazza is nice but sometimes the restaurants flanking them are touristy and overpriced for what you get. You may do better by walking down a side street. Almost every restaurant displays their menu outside.

Be advised, if you’re looking for pizza it can be difficult to find at lunch. Do not expect every restaurant or pizzeria to have their ovens hot and ready at lunch time.

For dinners, especially on the weekend, you may need to reserve. If your Italian is not strong, have your hotel do it for you. Some restaurants are online and I’ve reserved by email on occasion, but telephone or in person is best. To ask for a reservation say: “Vorrei fare una prenotazione per favore.” Which sounds like “Vō-ray-far-eh-oona-pray-no-tots-ee-ō-nay-pear-fuh-vore-ay”. If you have your heart set on a famous fancy restaurant, reserve well in advance. In larger cities, many servers speak English and have English menus. In smaller towns, usually there is someone who can help. It’s definitely worth seeking out smaller-family-run restaurants.

You don’t need to speak Italian to eat in neighborhood places, but you’ll want a translation app—or even better, this Italian Food Decoder App.

Italians are not big on breakfasts. Local bars (which serve coffee, and usually food, in addition to drinks) will have pastries and coffee for breakfast. If eggs and bacon are important to you, ask your B&B about nearby breakfast offerings if they’re not providing it. I did have great eggs and bacon at a restaurant in Rome, but it surprised me.

If you order a caffè you will get an espresso. If you want American coffee, order a Caffè Americano. After lunch, do not order a cappuccino, get espresso. It’s almost decreed that Italians don’t drink cappuccino after breakfast. You already look like a tourist, don’t make it worse.

Italy has 608 brands of bottled water and you will be asked if you want acqua gassata (fizzy mineral) or acqua naturale (non-bubbly regular). Tap water, acqua al rubinetto, is safe to drink. Italy has water fountains everywhere. Consider bringing a bottle to refill and reduce waste.

Drink the house wine. It will be good and a great price. Half-bottles and bottles are also available—ask your server for a recommendation. “Che cosa mi consiglia?” Is how you ask what they recommend. It sounds like “Kay-coza-me-cone-seal-ya”.

Regardless of the menu, and not all restaurants have a printed one, ask your server what they suggest you order for your meal. (See above.) They’ll know what is freshest and if there are any specials. When I started trusting Italian servers, Italy rewarded me with deeper dining experiences.

Understanding the menu: Antipasto is a hot or cold appetizer. If you want to try an assortment, order the antipasto misto. Primo is the first course, generally a huge serving of amazing pasta, risotto, or soup. Secondo is typically meat (carne) or fish (pesche). Contorni are vegetables served on the side. To save room for dolce, it’s perfectly acceptable to share a dish (uno per due). Don’t feel like you have to eat one of everything.

If you are in a city, especially Milan or Rome, look for bars with Happy Hour Aperitivo. For the price of one drink, usually around 10-15€, you can eat from a buffet, in most cases, large enough to make a meal out of.

You’ll have to ask for the bill, il conto. It may have a coperto of 2-3€ per person. This is a cover charge, and is pretty standard in Italy. If you see a restaurant sign advertising no coperto, they’re getting you another way. Service is typically included in the bill, but if the service was exceptional, leave a little extra, it’s always appreciated.

Don’t order yellow banana or green pistachio gelato. It means they added artificial color and probably flavor. Those flavors should look gray. Definitely try Gelato! It’s got half the fat as ice cream and twice the flavor! 🙂

Vegetarians are well accommodated throughout Italy. If you have a gluten intolerance, you’ll be happy to know gluten-free pasta is readily available. Ask for “senza glutine.” Food allergies (allergico) are respected.

Children are welcome in every restaurant I’ve been to in Italy. If the restaurant does not have a menu per bambini, the server will suggest something.

Buy prosecco from a street-side vending machine. Because how cool is that?

If I’ve forgotten any tips or if you have any questions please let me know!

Buon Appetito!